The Happy Buffalo Hoi An

Pho Bac (northern pho): K'tu, An Bang Beach 07:00-12:00. 35-55,000d Central Vietnam has never really been the place to indulge in a good beef noodle soup. Due to the hot climate and lack of available of ingredients the central version of this northern soup (pho nam) is a very different beast - liberal servings of Hoi Sin and fish sauce replace the warming northern spices and because of this the bone stock produced lacks the layers of flavour. To make up for this elaborate garnishes of cilantro, mint, young papaya, bean sprouts and even mango are piled on top (something you would never find in Pho Bac). Previously, we would have recommend you save feeding your pho fetish for the northern provinces; then K'tu opened.. Banh Zeo (country pancakes): Hai Son Banh Zeo, 147 Ly Thai To, Hoi An 13-21:00hrs Hoi An's banh zeo darling, the Ba Le Well restaurant is always a winner, central market is a close runner up. However, the banh zeo served at Hai Son is far more delicious (the family are famous for their homemade pickles). Even better are the small pop-up front of house restos you'll peddle past while exploring the organic farm plots in the rice fields of Tra Que (when in season these families add fresh mushrooms to the batter, something different that works really well). Cao Lau: Lien Cao Lau, 16 Thai Phien St, Hoi An. 13-18:00hrs Cao lau may be available all-year round but it's a winter dish. Those fat chewy noodles, warming gravy and five spice pork aren't easy on the digestion in the tropical summer months. Cao lau/high floor - it's flooding downstairs. Bo Ne Op La (sizzling beef steak, eggs, tomato): Tran Hung Dao end of Tran Cao Van St. 07:00-09:30hrs

The H'Mong Sisters, An Bang Beach Hoi An

Phuoc is our go to guy on everything street food in Hoi An, his family were organic farmers supplying Hoi An's best vendors with the herbs and fresh ingredients they needed to make the best broths and dishes available at the market. He's been hosting food tours for over a decade, staying true to the vendors that he grew up with and his belief in a strong sustainable, organic future for his country.